How long does it take to walk through the Schöneberg rainbow district?

A self-guided walk typically takes between 90 and 120 minutes. This allows for about 10-15 minutes at each major stop, such as the Bavarian Quarter memorials and Rathaus Schöneberg.

Is Schöneberg worth visiting for history buffs?

Absolutely. Schöneberg offers a unique blend of Weimar-era decadence, Cold War political landmarks like the Rathaus, and moving World War II memorials, making it one of Berlin's most historically dense neighborhoods.

Where is the 'Cabaret' house in Berlin?

The house that inspired 'Cabaret' is located at Nollendorfstraße 17. This is where author Christopher Isherwood lived from 1930 to 1933 and where he set much of his 'Berlin Stories'.

Can I see the Bavarian Quarter memorial for free?

Yes, the 'Places of Remembrance' memorial is a decentralized public art installation. The signs are mounted on lampposts throughout the neighborhood and can be viewed for free at any time.

What is the best time of day to explore Schöneberg?

Afternoon is ideal, as the neighborhood comes alive with local cafes and shops. If you visit on a Saturday morning, you can also experience the famous market at Winterfeldtplatz.

Is the Schöneberg walking route accessible for wheelchairs?

Yes, the route is mostly flat with standard city sidewalks. It is considered an easy-difficulty walk and is accessible for both wheelchairs and strollers.

How do I get to the start of the Schöneberg walk?

The best way to start is by taking the U-Bahn to Nollendorfplatz. It is served by the U1, U2, U3, and U4 lines, making it easily accessible from anywhere in central Berlin.

Where did JFK give his 'Ich bin ein Berliner' speech?

John F. Kennedy delivered the speech on the steps of Rathaus Schöneberg, located at John-F.-Kennedy-Platz. This served as the city hall for West Berlin during the division of Germany.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the vibrant heart of Schöneberg, a district that pioneered queer visibility long before it was a global movement. This self-guided walk through Berlin's 'Rainbow Neighborhood' invites you to uncover the layers of history that transformed these streets into a sanctuary for the LGBTQ+ community during the roaring 1920s. As you explore independently, you will discover why this area was once known as the queer capital of the world, hosting legendary figures, avant-garde theaters, and a spirit of liberation that even the darkest chapters of the 20th century could not fully extinguish. Your walking route begins at Nollendorfplatz, the iconic gateway to the district, where rainbow flags fly year-round. From here, the journey takes you past the METROPOL, a venue that has evolved from a grand theater to a legendary nightclub, reflecting Berlin's ever-changing social landscape. You will visit the very doorstep where author Christopher Isherwood lived, finding the inspiration for 'Goodbye to Berlin' and the world-famous musical 'Cabaret.' As the path leads you deeper into the neighborhood, the atmosphere shifts from the bohemian energy of Winterfeldtplatz to the somber, reflective streets of the Bavarian Quarter. Here, unique 'Places of Remembrance' memorials offer a powerful lesson in history and human rights. The route concludes at the majestic Rathaus Schöneberg, the former seat of the West Berlin government and the site of John F. Kennedy’s historic 'Ich bin ein Berliner' speech. This neighborhood stroll is more than just a history lesson; it is an exploration of identity, resilience, and the enduring quest for freedom. Whether you are interested in literary history, political milestones, or simply soaking up the local atmosphere, this self-guided adventure provides the flexibility to stop at a local café or spend extra time at the memorials. Experience the legacy of Schöneberg at your own pace and see how this historic quarter continues to shape Berlin's inclusive identity today.

Highlights

The rainbow-hued history of Nollendorfplatz

Christopher Isherwood’s home, the inspiration for 'Cabaret'

The legendary METROPOL theater and clubbing venue

Winterfeldtplatz’s bustling local market and community spirit

The moving 'Places of Remembrance' in the Bavarian Quarter

Rathaus Schöneberg, site of JFK's famous 1963 speech

Tour Stops (6)

Nollendorfplatz

Welcome to Nollendorfplatz, the historic epicenter of Berlin's queer life. Since the early 20th century, this square has served as a beacon of tolerance. Even during the 1920s, the surrounding streets were home to dozens of LGBTQ+ bars and cafes. Look up at the U-Bahn station’s dome, which is illuminated in rainbow colors at night. Nearby, you will find a plaque shaped like a pink triangle, a memorial to the gay victims of National Socialism. This spot serves as a powerful reminder of both the district's celebratory past and its resilience through tragedy. Today, it remains the heart of the annual Motzstraßenfest, one of Europe's largest street festivals.

METROPOL

Standing before you is the METROPOL, a building that perfectly encapsulates Berlin’s architectural and cultural transformations. Originally built in 1906 as the 'Neues Schauspielhaus' theater and concert hall, it later became the 'Theater am Nollendorfplatz' where Erwin Piscator pioneered political theater. In the late 1970s and 80s, it transformed into the Metropol, a legendary discotheque that was a cornerstone of the city's synth-pop and queer clubbing scene. Imagine the nights when icons like Depeche Mode performed here. Its grand facade hides a history of artistic revolution and late-night liberation, standing as a monument to Berlin’s status as a city that never sleeps.

Residential building of Christopher Isherwood

Located at Nollendorfstraße 17, this unassuming apartment building holds a massive literary legacy. In the early 1930s, British author Christopher Isherwood lived here as a lodger. His experiences in this house and the characters he met—like his fellow boarder Jean Ross—provided the basis for his novel 'Goodbye to Berlin.' This work later inspired the play 'I Am a Camera' and the legendary musical and film 'Cabaret.' As you stand here, think of the 'divine decadence' Isherwood described, capturing the fleeting, vibrant, and increasingly desperate atmosphere of Berlin as the Weimar Republic came to a close.

Winterfeldtplatz

Winterfeldtplatz is the social heart of Schöneberg. Dominated by the brick architecture of St. Matthias Church, the square is best known for its sprawling bi-weekly market. On market days, the air is filled with the scent of fresh flowers, artisanal cheeses, and local street food. This square has long been a gathering place for political activists and the local community. It represents the everyday life of the neighborhood—a place where the historic queer identity meets the family-friendly, residential vibe of modern Schöneberg. It is the perfect spot to pause, grab a coffee, and watch the world go by.

Bavarian Quarter

As you enter the Bavarian Quarter, or Bayerisches Viertel, the atmosphere changes. This was once a prestigious residential area with a large Jewish population, including residents like Albert Einstein. Look up at the lampposts to see the 'Places of Remembrance' (Orte des Erinnerns). These 80 signs feature simple illustrations on one side and the text of Nazi-era anti-Jewish laws on the other. Created by artists Renata Stih and Frieder Schnock, this decentralized memorial forces us to confront how discrimination was woven into the fabric of daily life. It is a sobering but essential part of understanding Schöneberg’s history.

Rathaus Schöneberg

Our walk ends at Rathaus Schöneberg, the former city hall of West Berlin during the Cold War. It was on these steps in June 1963 that U.S. President John F. Kennedy delivered his famous 'Ich bin ein Berliner' speech, expressing solidarity with the people of a divided city. For decades, this building was the center of political power for the democratic enclave of West Berlin. The square in front of it is now named John-F.-Kennedy-Platz. Take a moment to admire the bell tower, which houses the Liberty Bell, a gift from the United States inspired by the original in Philadelphia, symbolizing the defense of freedom.

Frequently Asked Questions

The route starting at Nollendorfplatz is the most iconic. It covers the heart of the rainbow district, including Motzstraße, the Christopher Isherwood house, and the pink triangle memorial, spanning about 1.5 miles.