Spires and Spirits: Antwerp’s Great Churches

Walking tour in Antwerp

2 hr 30 min
Duration
6
Stops
Moderate
Difficulty
historyarchitecture

About This Tour

Antwerp’s skyline is a jagged silhouette of Gothic spires and Baroque domes, reflecting a city that has long been at the crossroads of global commerce and Catholic faith. This self-guided walk invites you to explore the 'Golden Age' of the city, where merchant wealth met religious fervor to create some of the most stunning ecclesiastical art in Northern Europe. As you navigate the cobblestone alleys of the Historic Center, you will encounter spaces that functioned as much as art galleries as they did houses of worship. This walking route highlights the profound influence of the Baroque master Peter Paul Rubens, whose genius is etched into the altarpieces and facades of these great structures. From the towering UNESCO-listed spire of the Cathedral of Our Lady to the hidden, tranquil courtyard of the Beguinage, this neighborhood stroll reveals the layers of Antwerp’s spiritual and artistic identity. You will see how the city recovered from the iconoclasm of the 16th century by embracing the theatricality of the Counter-Reformation, resulting in the 'monumental churches' that still define the city today. Whether you are an art historian or a casual traveler, this self-guided adventure allows you to discover these treasures at your own pace. You can linger over the intricate wood-carved pulpits of St. Andrew’s or find a moment of silence in the Calvary garden of St. Paul’s. This is more than just a tour of buildings; it is an exploration of the 'Spires and Spirits' that have shaped Antwerp's resilient character for centuries. By choosing a walking tour Antwerp enthusiasts recommend, you ensure a deep dive into the city's aesthetic soul, far from the typical tourist crowds. Experience the grandeur of the Flemish masters in the very environments they were designed for, and see why Antwerp remains a global capital of art and heritage.

Highlights

  • The UNESCO-listed spire of the Cathedral of Our Lady
  • Rubens' masterpiece paintings in their original settings
  • The dramatic outdoor Calvary garden at St. Paul’s Church
  • The final resting place of Peter Paul Rubens at St. James’s Church
  • The peaceful, hidden courtyard of the 16th-century Beguinage
  • The 'Church of the People' and its intricate wooden pulpit in St. Andrew’s

Route Map

Route map for Spires and Spirits: Antwerp’s Great Churches

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Cathedral of Our Lady

Begin your self-guided adventure at the Cathedral of Our Lady, a towering masterpiece of Brabantine Gothic architecture. Its 123-meter-high north spire is a UNESCO World Heritage site and has dominated the skyline since 1521. Inside, the cathedral serves as a breathtaking gallery for Peter Paul Rubens. Look for 'The Raising of the Cross' and 'The Descent from the Cross,' two of his most celebrated triptychs. These works were central to the Counter-Reformation, designed to inspire awe through their dynamic movement and emotional intensity. Notice how the light filters through the stained glass, illuminating a space that has survived fires, iconoclasm, and revolution to remain the spiritual heart of Antwerp.

2

Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk

Walking route continues to the Hendrik Conscienceplein, where the Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk stands as the ultimate expression of Jesuit Baroque. Known as 'Rubens' church,' the master artist contributed significantly to the facade and the tower. Originally, the interior featured 39 ceiling paintings by Rubens, but tragically, a lightning strike and subsequent fire in 1718 destroyed them. Despite this loss, the church remains a 'theatrical' space, intended to overwhelm the senses. Don't miss the unique mechanism above the main altar that allows the large paintings to be rotated depending on the liturgical season—a true piece of 17th-century engineering.

3

St Paul's Church

Explore St Paul's Church, located in the old sailors' quarter. This former Dominican church is a treasure trove of art, housing works by Rubens, Van Dyck, and Jordaens. However, the most striking feature is outside: the Calvary. This artificial stone hill features over 60 life-sized statues depicting the path to the crucifixion. It was built between 1697 and 1747 and feels like a stage set frozen in time. The church’s interior survived a devastating fire in 1968 thanks to local residents and even 'ladies of the night' from the nearby district who helped carry out the priceless paintings, proving how much this site means to the community.

4

St James's Church, Antwerp

St James's Church was the parish church for Antwerp’s wealthy elite during the 17th century. Because so many nobles wanted to be buried here, the interior is exceptionally lavish, with more than 20 private chapels. Its most famous resident is Peter Paul Rubens himself; he is buried in the chapel behind the high altar. The painting above his tomb, 'The Virgin Surrounded by Saints,' was painted by Rubens specifically for this spot and features family members as models. As a major stop on the pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostela, the church has always welcomed travelers, a tradition that continues today as you explore its marble-clad aisles.

5

Beguinage

For a change of pace, step into the Beguinage (Begijnhof). This is a hidden gem—a secluded 'city within a city' founded in the 13th century for the Beguines, religious women who lived in community without taking perpetual vows. The current houses date mostly from the 16th century. While the last Beguine passed away in the late 20th century, the site remains a place of profound silence and beauty. Walk through the walled garden and admire the St. Catherine’s Church and the small, well-tended orchards. It is one of the most peaceful spots in Antwerp, offering a glimpse into a unique form of medieval social and religious life.

6

St. Andrew's Church

Finish your stroll at St. Andrew's Church in the heart of the Sint-Andries district. Once a neighborhood for the poor and the working class, this 'Church of the People' has a surprisingly grand interior. Look for the monument to Mary, Queen of Scots, erected by two of her ladies-in-waiting who fled to Antwerp. The highlight here is the 19th-century pulpit, an incredible feat of woodcarving that depicts the calling of the apostles Peter and Andrew. The lifelike details—the fish, the nets, and the expressions of the fishermen—are a testament to the enduring skill of Flemish craftsmen. It’s a perfect final stop to reflect on the blend of high art and local devotion.

Frequently Asked Questions

The total walking route takes approximately 2.5 to 3 hours. This includes walking time between the six stops and about 20-30 minutes inside each major church to admire the artwork.

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