Kadıköy: Asian Side Street Food Safari

Walking tour in Istanbul

1 hr 50 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
foodculture

About This Tour

Cross the Bosphorus and leave the historic peninsula behind to discover Kadıköy, the beating heart of Istanbul's Asian side. This neighborhood stroll invites you into a world where ancient culinary traditions meet a modern, bohemian lifestyle. While many visitors stick to the European side, this self-guided walk reveals why locals prefer the relaxed, food-focused atmosphere of Kadıköy. You will wander through narrow lanes filled with the scent of freshly roasted coffee, briny seafood, and sweet syrups, exploring a side of the city that is intensely authentic. This route is designed for those who want to experience the legendary hospitality of Turkey through its stomach, visiting institutions that have defined Turkish confectionery and dining for centuries. Your journey begins at the legendary Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir, a name synonymous with the very invention of Turkish Delight. From there, you will transition into the elegant 1920s atmosphere of Baylan, a patisserie that served as a meeting point for Istanbul's intellectual elite. As you delve deeper into the market district, the route highlights the incredible diversity of Anatolian cuisine at Çiya Sofrası, a place where 'lost' recipes are brought back to life. You will also experience the sensory overload of the Kadıköy Fish Market, a vibrant hub of vendors selling everything from shimmering mackerel to jars of neon-colored pickles. Beyond the food, the route takes you through Tellalzade Street, famous for its antique shops and nostalgic charm, before concluding at the iconic Bull Statue, the neighborhood's most famous landmark. This walking route Istanbul offers is not just about eating; it is about understanding the cultural fabric of a neighborhood that balances its Ottoman past with a fiercely independent present. Whether you are a seasoned foodie or a first-time visitor, this audio walk provides the context and history needed to navigate this delicious district at your own pace. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • Sample the original Turkish Delight at the historic Haci Bekir
  • Taste the legendary Kup Griye dessert at the iconic Baylan Patisserie
  • Explore the 'lost' regional recipes of Anatolia at Çiya Sofrası
  • Immerse yourself in the bustling atmosphere of the Kadıköy Fish Market
  • Browse the charming antique shops along Tellalzade Street
  • Visit the famous Kadıköy Bull Statue, the district's favorite meeting point

Route Map

Route map for Kadıköy: Asian Side Street Food Safari

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir

Welcome to the birthplace of the world’s most famous sweet. Ali Muhiddin Haci Bekir opened his first shop in 1777 and is credited with the creation of modern Turkish Delight, or 'lokum.' Before his innovations using starch and refined sugar, these sweets were made with flour and honey. The Kadıköy branch maintains an old-world elegance that transports you back to the Ottoman era. As you look at the wooden counters and glass jars, imagine the generations of Istanbulites who have come here to buy gifts for holidays and celebrations. It is not just about the sugar; it is about a lineage of master confectioners that has remained in the same family for over two centuries.

2

Baylan

Step into Baylan, a patisserie that feels more like a Parisian salon than a Turkish bakery. Founded in the 1920s by Filip Lenas, Baylan became the center of the 'Baylan Movement,' where writers, artists, and thinkers gathered over coffee and cake. The signature dish here is the 'Kup Griye,' a decadent concoction of vanilla and caramel ice cream, whipped cream, honey-almond crunch, and a splash of liqueur. While the decor has been updated, the recipe remains unchanged since 1954. This stop represents the cosmopolitan, Western-facing side of Kadıköy’s history, reflecting the diverse cultural influences that shaped the city during the early years of the Turkish Republic.

3

Çiya Sofrası

Çiya Sofrası is more than a restaurant; it is a culinary museum. Founded by Musa Dağdeviren, who has been featured on Netflix’s Chef’s Table, this establishment is dedicated to preserving the forgotten recipes of Anatolia. Unlike standard kebab houses, Çiya focuses on regional stews, seasonal herbs, and unique flavor combinations like meat cooked with fruit. The menu changes frequently based on what is in season and which regional traditions are being celebrated. It is a place where the food tells the story of the many civilizations that have inhabited the Turkish landscape, from the Hittites to the Ottomans. Take a moment to appreciate the sheer variety of ingredients on display.

4

Tellalzade Sokak

Known locally as 'Antique Street,' Tellalzade Sokak offers a peaceful break from the busy market. This narrow lane is lined with shops overflowing with relics of Istanbul's past: gramophones, vintage movie posters, Ottoman-era glassware, and dusty stacks of books. It is a place for nostalgia and discovery. The shopkeepers here are often as interesting as their wares, many having spent decades collecting these fragments of history. As you stroll, notice the architecture and the way the street feels like a living attic of the city. While the inventory in these shops changes daily, the sense of stepping back in time remains constant.

5

Kadıköy Balık Pazarı

Prepare your senses for the Kadıköy Fish Market. This is the heart of the neighborhood's daily life. You will see fishmongers expertly displaying the catch of the day on beds of ice, their gills fanned out to show freshness. But it is not just fish; look for the 'turşu' (pickle) shops with their bright jars of pickled everything—from cucumbers to plums. You will also find stalls selling olives, local cheeses, and dried fruits. This market is a testament to the Turkish obsession with fresh, seasonal produce. The energy here is infectious, with vendors calling out their prices and locals haggling for the best ingredients for their evening meal.

6

Kadikoy Bull Statue

Your walk concludes at the 'Boğa Heykeli' or the Bull Statue. This is the ultimate meeting point in Kadıköy; if you live here, you have likely told a friend, 'Meet me at the Bull.' The statue has a fascinating journey: it was sculpted in Paris in the 1860s by Isidore Jules Bonheur to symbolize French power. After changing hands multiple times during wars and diplomatic gifts, it finally settled here in the 1970s. Today, it stands at the intersection of six roads (Altıyol), marking the transition between the market district and the residential hills of Kadıköy. It is a symbol of the neighborhood’s strength and its bustling, unpretentious spirit.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk through the Kadıköy Fish Market and historic shops like Haci Bekir is the best way to explore. This route allows you to taste legendary desserts and Anatolian dishes at your own pace.

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