The Scent of History: Chouara Tannery and Artisan Souks

Walking tour in Fes

1 hr 50 min
Duration
6
Stops
Moderate
Difficulty
historyphotographycrafts

About This Tour

Step into the sensory heart of Fes el Bali, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the world's largest car-free urban area. This self-guided walk invites you to navigate the labyrinthine alleys of the medina, where the air shifts from the fragrance of cedarwood to the sharp, earthy scent of ancient tanneries. On this walking route, you will experience the living history of Moroccan craftsmanship, moving beyond the surface-level bustle to understand the traditions that have sustained this city for over a millennium. Fes is a city of layers, and this neighborhood stroll is designed to peel them back at your own pace. Your journey begins at the Place en-Nejjarine, home to the beautifully restored Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts. From there, you will weave through the Henna Souk, one of the oldest markets in the city, where pottery and traditional cosmetics are still sold under the shade of ancient trees. As you explore independently, you will encounter the Cherratine Madrasa, a 17th-century center of learning, before emerging into the rhythmic clanging of Place Seffarine, where coppersmiths have hammered out their trade for centuries. This route captures the essence of a walking tour Fes is famous for: a mix of architectural grandeur and gritty, authentic industry. The climax of this exploration is the iconic Chouara Tannery. Known for its honeycomb of stone vessels filled with vibrant dyes, it is perhaps the most photographed site in Morocco. While many visitors feel the need for a guided tour Fes locals often recommend finding a high terrace to observe the process from above. Finally, the walk concludes at Bab Guissa, a monumental gate that offers a transition from the dense medina to the open hills overlooking the city. Whether you are a photography enthusiast or a history buff, this self-guided adventure provides the freedom to linger where you choose, capturing the soul of Fes without the pressure of a group.

Highlights

  • Marvel at the intricate cedar carvings of the Nejjarine Museum
  • Discover traditional Berber cosmetics at the ancient Henna Souk
  • Hear the rhythmic hammering of coppersmiths at Place Seffarine
  • Witness the world-famous dye vats of the Chouara Tannery
  • Explore the 17th-century architecture of the Cherratine Madrasa
  • Take in panoramic views of the medina from the historic Bab Guissa gate

Route Map

Route map for The Scent of History: Chouara Tannery and Artisan Souks

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts

Start your journey at Place en-Nejjarine. The museum is housed in a former 'fondouk'—an 18th-century inn for traveling merchants. Look up at the cedarwood canopy over the entrance; it is a masterpiece of Moroccan 'zellige' and carved wood. Inside, the three floors of galleries showcase everything from traditional wedding chests to musical instruments and tools. The architecture of the building itself, with its central courtyard and intricately carved balconies, is as much a museum piece as the artifacts. It serves as a testament to the guild of carpenters who have worked in this plaza for generations.

2

Henna Souk

Leaving the woodwork behind, you enter the Henna Souk. This is one of the oldest and most atmospheric markets in Fes, shaded by large plane trees. Originally a site for a 13th-century hospital (Maristan), it now serves as the center for traditional cosmetics. You will find mounds of green henna powder, black soap, and ghassoul clay. This is also a primary spot for Fassi pottery, recognizable by its distinct cobalt blue patterns. The pace here is slightly slower than the main thoroughfares, allowing you to observe the locals shopping for their beauty and household essentials.

3

Cherratine Madrasa

Tucked away in the winding streets is the Cherratine Madrasa, commissioned by Sultan Moulay Rashid in 1670. Unlike the more famous Al-Attarine Madrasa, this school is known for its more functional, yet still beautiful, design. It was built to house students from across Morocco, and you can still see the small, austere dorm rooms surrounding the central courtyard. The bronze-plated doors and the intricate plasterwork (stucco) offer a quiet space for reflection away from the market noise. It highlights the long-standing importance of Fes as a center of Islamic scholarship and residential student life.

4

Place Seffarine

As you approach Place Seffarine, you will hear it before you see it. This small square is the domain of the coppersmiths. The rhythmic, metallic 'cling-clang' is the sound of artisans hammering out massive cauldrons, teapots, and trays. In the center of the square stands a large tree, and surrounding it are workshops that have been in the same families for centuries. This square also sits adjacent to the library of the Al-Quaraouiyine University, the oldest continually operating educational institution in the world. It is a perfect spot to witness the raw, industrial energy that still powers the old city.

5

Chouara Tannery

Prepare your senses as you reach the Chouara Tannery, the largest and oldest of its kind in Fes. Since the 11th century, leather has been processed here using the same natural ingredients: pigeon droppings, limestone, and vegetable dyes like saffron and poppy. From the surrounding leather shop balconies, you can look down upon hundreds of stone pits filled with colored liquids. Workers stand waist-deep in the vats, treading on the hides to soften them. It is a grueling, ancient process that produces some of the finest leather in the world. Many shops will offer you a sprig of mint to help with the pungent aroma.

6

Bab Guissa

Your walk concludes at Bab Guissa, a monumental 12th-century gate on the northern edge of the medina. This gate served as a primary entrance for travelers arriving from the north. Just outside the gate lies the Bab Guissa Cemetery and the Merenid Tombs on the hill above. The atmosphere here is a stark contrast to the cramped streets you just navigated—open, breezy, and offering a wide-angle view of the green-tiled roofs and minarets of Fes el Bali. It is a place where locals often gather at sunset to look over the city and reflect on the day.

Frequently Asked Questions

The route through Fes el Bali to the Chouara Tannery is widely considered the most photogenic. The contrast between the detailed carvings at the Nejjarine Museum and the vibrant dye vats of the tannery provides world-class photo opportunities.

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