Guanajuato is a city built into a ravine, where the streets are often too narrow for cars and the only way to explore is by climbing. This self-guided walk takes you away from the flat, crowded main plazas and into the vertical labyrinth of the northern hills. Known as the 'Secret Stairs,' this route follows the ancient footpaths that miners and locals have used for centuries to navigate the steep terrain. You will discover why this city is often compared to a Mediterranean hillside village, with its brightly colored facades and winding stone staircases that seem to lead nowhere and everywhere at once. Starting at the world-famous Callejón del Beso, this walking route quickly transitions from iconic landmarks to the quiet, authentic neighborhoods of San Javier and North Centro. You will experience the unique urban planning of Guanajuato, where the roof of one house often serves as the patio for the neighbor above. Along the way, the route explores the legends that haunt these stones—from the tragic tales of the Carcamanes brothers to the ominous reputation of the Callejón del Infierno. This is not just a neighborhood stroll; it is a physical immersion into the heart of a UNESCO World Heritage site. As you ascend, the noise of the city center fades, replaced by the sounds of daily life: the echo of footsteps on cobblestones and the distant chime of church bells. This walk is perfect for those who want to see the 'real' Guanajuato, offering panoramic views that most travelers miss. While this walking tour Guanajuato requires a good pair of shoes and a bit of stamina, the rewards are found in the hidden plazas and secret vistas that can only be reached on foot. Prepare to lose yourself in a world where every corner reveals a new perspective on Mexico's most beautiful colonial city.

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour
Start your self-guided adventure at the narrowest point in the city. The Alley of the Kiss is famous for its balconies that sit just 68 centimeters apart. Legend tells of Ana and Carlos, lovers from feuding families who met here in secret. Carlos bought the house opposite Ana's so they could hold hands and kiss across the gap. The story ends in tragedy, but tradition says that couples who kiss on the third step are guaranteed seven years of happiness. Even if you are walking solo, the architecture here is a stunning example of how Guanajuato's residents adapted to the narrow confines of the canyon.
As you move away from the crowds, you enter the Callejón de la Condesa. This narrow passage is named after the Countess of San Pedro de Álamo. It serves as a perfect introduction to the 'hidden' side of the city. Notice the high stone walls and the way the light filters down into the narrow space. This alleyway was once a primary thoroughfare for the nobility moving between their mansions and the central parish. Today, it remains a quiet, atmospheric link between the bustling center and the residential hills above, showcasing the timeless masonry that defines Guanajuato.
This tranquil plaza holds a dark history. It is named after two Swiss brothers, Nicolas and Arturo Carcaman, who lived in the large house overlooking the square in the 19th century. Local lore says they both fell in love with the same woman, leading to a double murder and a suicide that left the house 'cursed.' Despite its ghostly reputation, the plaza is one of the most picturesque spots in the North Centro area. Take a moment to admire the orange and yellow ochre walls and the small fountain, which offer a peaceful respite before the steeper part of your climb begins.
Prepare your legs for the Callejón del Infierno, or 'Hell's Alley.' Don't let the name intimidate you; it likely refers to the grueling incline rather than anything more sinister. In the early mining days, names like this were common for the steepest paths that tested the endurance of workers. As you ascend, look back frequently. The higher you go, the more the city reveals itself in a mosaic of colors. You are now entering the true heart of the hillside neighborhoods, where the 'streets' are entirely composed of stone stairs and small landings shared by neighbors.
Reaching the area of San José, you are now well above the typical tourist trail. This neighborhood is deeply connected to the city's mining heritage, with many of the homes originally built for the workers of the nearby San Pedro or La Valenciana mines. The architecture here is more modest but no less vibrant. You will see small shrines built into the walls and laundry hanging over balconies, offering a glimpse into the daily rhythm of life in Guanajuato. The air is thinner here, but the sense of community and the quiet beauty of the stone-lined paths make every step worth the effort.
You have reached the upper network of callejones. From this vantage point, you can see the massive structures of the University of Guanajuato and the Basilica below, looking like miniature models. These upper alleys represent the true urban soul of the city—a place where cars cannot go, and life moves at the pace of a human heartbeat. This area is a masterclass in organic urbanism, where the city grew upward out of necessity. Enjoy the panoramic views and the cool breeze that often sweeps across these northern ridges before you begin your descent back toward the city center.
Download Zigway to experience "The Secret Stairs: Hidden Alleys of the North" with AI-powered audio narration. Walk at your own pace while stories unfold around you.
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