Jericho: Canals, Artisans, and Industry

Walking tour in Oxford

1 hr 45 min
Duration
6
Stops
Easy
Difficulty
hidden-gemsneighborhoodhistory

About This Tour

Step away from the dreaming spires and ancient colleges of central Oxford to discover Jericho, a neighborhood with a character all its own. This self-guided walk explores a corner of the city once defined by the thrum of printing presses and the slow drift of canal barges. Historically a suburb for the working class and the artisans of the Oxford University Press, Jericho has transformed into one of the UK’s most vibrant and sought-after neighborhoods while retaining its gritty, industrial soul. On this walking route, you will uncover how a community built on industry and maritime trade evolved into a hub of bohemian culture, independent cinema, and architectural eccentricity. As you wander through the narrow streets of terraced cottages, you’ll encounter landmarks that tell the story of a changing Britain. From the neo-classical grandeur of the world's second-oldest university press to a Greek Revival church that now serves as a soaring cocktail bar, the neighborhood is a masterclass in urban repurposing. The route takes you toward the Oxford Canal, where the legacy of the Industrial Revolution remains visible in the iron bridges and colorful narrowboats that still line the water. This neighborhood stroll is perfect for those looking to experience the local side of the city, far from the typical tourist trails. Whether you are a fan of Philip Pullman’s 'His Dark Materials'—which drew heavy inspiration from these very streets—or a history enthusiast interested in the social evolution of Oxford’s 'artisans,' this audio walk provides the context you need to appreciate Jericho’s unique atmosphere. You will see how the community fought to preserve its heritage against redevelopment, ensuring that the spirit of the old bookbinders and ironworkers lives on in the pubs and creative spaces of today. Discover the 'Republic of Jericho' at your own pace, enjoying the blend of Victorian history and modern-day charm that makes this area truly special. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • The monumental headquarters of the Oxford University Press
  • Freud, a stunning Greek Revival church-turned-cafe
  • The historic Phoenix Picturehouse, a staple of indie cinema
  • Scenic views of the Oxford Canal and its vibrant narrowboats
  • The Old Bookbinders Ale House, a classic Victorian corner pub
  • St Barnabas Church, an Italianate masterpiece in the heart of the district

Route Map

Route map for Jericho: Canals, Artisans, and Industry

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Oxford University Press

Begin your self-guided adventure at the massive Corinthian-style gates of the Oxford University Press (OUP). While it looks like a palace, this is the engine room of global scholarship. Established in its current location in the 1820s, the OUP essentially built the neighborhood of Jericho to house its workers. As the second-oldest university press in the world, it has published everything from the first Oxford English Dictionary to Bibles and academic journals. The move here was strategic, placing the press near the canal for easy transport of paper and coal. Notice the scale of the building; it represents the immense wealth and influence the university held over the local economy. Though the interior is private, the facade remains a testament to the industrial scale of 19th-century printing.

2

Freud Cafe Bar

Just a short walk away sits one of Oxford’s most striking examples of architectural repurposing. This building was originally St Paul’s Church, built in 1836 in the Greek Revival style to serve the growing population of Jericho. Look up at the massive Ionic columns and the pediment that seems more at home in ancient Athens than an English industrial suburb. By the late 20th century, the church fell out of use and faced demolition before being saved and converted into the Freud Cafe Bar. It was a pioneer in the trend of turning redundant religious spaces into community hubs. Today, the soaring ceilings and stained glass provide a dramatic backdrop for locals enjoying coffee or cocktails, illustrating Jericho’s shift from traditional religious life to a modern, secular social scene.

3

Phoenix Picturehouse

The Phoenix Picturehouse is more than just a cinema; it is the cultural heart of Walton Street. Opening in 1913 as the North Oxford Kinema, it is one of the oldest continuously operating cinemas in the UK. Throughout the 20th century, it survived the rise of television and the threat of multiplexes by focusing on independent and foreign-language films. Its presence helped cement Jericho’s reputation as a bohemian enclave for academics, students, and artists. The building’s modest facade belies its importance to the local community. It has hosted countless film festivals and premieres, maintaining its vintage charm while adapting to the digital age. It represents the artistic spirit that defines Jericho today, where history and modern creativity coexist.

4

The Streets of Jericho

As you move deeper into the neighborhood toward the canal, take a moment to observe the residential architecture. Unlike the grand stone colleges of the city center, Jericho is a maze of red-brick terraced cottages. These were built for the 'artisans'—the printers, bookbinders, and ironworkers of the 1800s. In the 1960s, much of this area was designated for 'slum clearance,' but the residents successfully campaigned to save their homes, a move that preserved the unique village-like atmosphere you see today. This area also served as a major inspiration for Philip Pullman’s 'Lyra’s Oxford.' The narrow streets and the proximity to the water create a sense of enclosure and mystery that has long captivated writers and filmmakers alike.

5

The Old Bookbinders Ale House

You are now standing outside The Old Bookbinders Ale House, a pub whose name perfectly captures the neighborhood's industrial heritage. In the 19th century, bookbinding was a major local trade, often done in small workshops or even in the workers' own homes. This corner pub has served the community since 1869 and remains a 'local favorite' that resists the polish of modern gastropubs. Inside, you’ll often find a quirky mix of memorabilia and a lively atmosphere that feels authentically Jericho. It’s a reminder that while the neighborhood has gentrified, its roots are firmly planted in the working-class culture of the Victorian era. It is a popular spot for a mid-walk break, offering a glimpse into the social fabric of the area.

6

St Barnabas Church

Your walking route concludes at St Barnabas Church, a building that looks like it was transported directly from Northern Italy. Built in 1869, its campanile (bell tower) is a landmark visible from the canal. The church was funded by Thomas Combe, the Superintendent of the University Press, specifically for the poor families of Jericho. Unlike the elite colleges, this church practiced 'Anglo-Catholicism,' focusing on elaborate ritual and social outreach to the working class. Inside, the architecture is simple but the history is rich; it even features in Thomas Hardy's novel 'Jude the Obscure.' From here, you are just steps away from the Oxford Canal towpath, where you can watch the narrowboats and reflect on the industrial tide that built this unique Oxford suburb.

Frequently Asked Questions

A self-guided walk is the best way to explore Jericho, as it allows you to wander the narrow residential streets and canal paths at your own pace. This route covers approximately 1.5 miles and focuses on the area's transition from industrial hub to trendy neighborhood.

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