The Street Food Secrets of the Walled City

Walking tour in Delhi

3 hr
Duration
6
Stops
Challenging
Difficulty
foodmarketculture

About This Tour

Step into the sensory whirlwind of Old Delhi, a place where history is measured in recipes rather than years. This self-guided culinary route through the heart of the 17th-century walled city, Shahjahanabad, invites you to navigate a labyrinth of narrow alleys, rickshaws, and spice-scented air at your own pace. While most visitors stick to the main thoroughfares, this walking route dives deep into the 'galis' (lanes) to uncover the legendary eateries that have fed emperors and commoners alike for generations. You will experience the vibrant energy of the Chawri Bazar and Chandni Chowk neighborhoods, where food is a form of cultural preservation. From the creamy, fruit-stuffed kulfis of Sitaram Bazar to the butter-drenched kebabs near the towering minarets of Jama Masjid, every stop on this neighborhood stroll tells a story of migration, royalty, and resilience. This is not just a food crawl; it is an exploration of Delhi's soul, where the architecture is weathered but the flavors remain as sharp and bright as they were a century ago. Because this area is famously chaotic, moving independently allows you to pause when you need a break from the crowds or linger at a shop that catches your eye. Whether you are a seasoned foodie or a first-time visitor, this street food walk Delhi offers an unfiltered look at the city's most iconic flavors. Be prepared for a challenging but rewarding journey through some of the most densely populated streets on earth, where the reward is a bite of history that cannot be replicated anywhere else in the world. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

  • Sample the world-famous fruit-stuffed kulfi at Kuremal's
  • Experience the buttery decadence of Aslam’s legendary chicken
  • Dine at the historic Karim Hotel, a bastion of Mughlai cuisine
  • Watch giant jalebis being fried at the corner of Dariba Kalan
  • Walk through the iconic Paranthe Wali Gali
  • Taste the tangy and sweet dahi bhalla at the historic Natraj

Route Map

Route map for The Street Food Secrets of the Walled City

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Kuremal's Mohanlal Kulfi

Begin your self-guided adventure at Kuremal's, a legendary establishment in the Sitaram Bazar area that has been perfecting the art of kulfi since 1906. Unlike standard frozen desserts, Kuremal’s is famous for its 'stuffed fruit kulfi.' They painstakingly remove the core of fruits like mango, orange, or pomegranate, fill them with creamy rabri, and freeze them whole. When you order, they peel the fruit and slice it, revealing a beautiful marbled cross-section. It is a testament to the ingenuity of Old Delhi's dessert makers. As you stand in this narrow lane, notice the historic havelis (mansions) surrounding you, many of which still retain their original carved doorways despite the bustling commerce below.

2

Aslam Chicken

As you move toward the shadow of the Jama Masjid, the aroma of charcoal and spices intensifies. Aslam Chicken is not your typical eatery; it is a multi-story institution famous for a very specific preparation of butter chicken. Unlike the tomato-based gravy found elsewhere, here the chicken is grilled to smoky perfection before being submerged in a pool of melted butter, yogurt, and a secret blend of spices. It is served with thin, handkerchief-like 'rumali rotis.' This spot represents the evolution of Mughlai street food—messy, unapologetically rich, and deeply satisfying. The atmosphere here is fast-paced and loud, reflecting the tireless energy of the Matia Mahal neighborhood.

3

Karim Hotel

Just a short walk away lies Karim Hotel, perhaps the most famous culinary landmark in all of Delhi. Established in 1913 by Haji Karimuddin, who claimed his ancestors were cooks in the royal kitchens of the Mughal Emperors, this place is steeped in history. Entering the courtyard feels like stepping back in time. While the decor is simple, the flavors of the Mutton Burra and Stew are legendary. Karim’s has survived the fall of empires and the partition of the country, remaining a constant for locals. It serves as a living museum of the city's royal culinary heritage, where the recipes are guarded as closely as crown jewels.

4

Old Famous Jalebi Wala

Navigate your way to the bustling intersection of Dariba Kalan and Chandni Chowk to find the Old Famous Jalebi Wala. Operating since 1884, this shop is famous for jalebis that are significantly thicker and juicier than the standard variety. Fried in pure desi ghee over a coal fire, these golden coils are then soaked in a sugar syrup that is subtly flavored with saffron. Watching the 'halwai' (confectioner) expertly pipe the batter into the bubbling oil is a mesmerizing experience. It is a perfect spot to observe the organized chaos of Chandni Chowk, Delhi's historic silver market, which has been the city's commercial heart for centuries.

5

Paranthe Wali Gali

Turn into the 'Lane of Paranthas,' a narrow alleyway that gained its name in the 1870s when several shops moved here from elsewhere in the city. While dozens of shops once lined this street, a few historic families remain, serving deep-fried stuffed flatbreads. Unlike the pan-fried paranthas found in most Indian homes, these are fried in a 'kadhai' (wok), resulting in a crispy, puff-pastry-like texture. You can find fillings ranging from traditional potato and cauliflower to quirky options like banana or khoya (milk solids). The lane itself is a fascinating slice of Old Delhi's urban fabric, with tiny shops tucked into every available inch of space.

6

Natraj Dahi Bhalla

End your walking route at Natraj Dahi Bhalla, located near the entrance to the Chandni Chowk metro station. Since 1940, this tiny corner stall has served only two items: Dahi Bhalla (lentil dumplings in yogurt) and Aloo Tikki (spiced potato patties). The Dahi Bhalla here is prized for its incredibly soft texture and the perfect balance of spicy green chutney and sweet tamarind sauce. It is the quintessential Delhi street food experience—standing on the sidewalk, plate in hand, amidst the flow of thousands of commuters. It is a refreshing, tangy finish to your journey through the heavy, rich flavors of the Walled City.

Frequently Asked Questions

While many travelers enjoy it without issue, it is best to stick to busy stalls with high turnover. Always drink bottled water and avoid ice. The places on this self-guided walk are established institutions with high volumes of customers.

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