How long does it take to walk the Amman staircases?

This specific route takes approximately 2 to 3 hours including stops. The total distance is about 4-5 kilometers, but the elevation changes make it feel longer than a flat walk.

Is the Amman Vertical City walk difficult?

Yes, this is a challenging walk. It involves several hundred steps both up and down, and the terrain can be uneven, requiring a good level of physical fitness.

What are the best hidden gems in Jabal Amman?

Beyond the famous Rainbow Street, the Mango Street Stairs and the hidden alleyways leading toward the downtown are true hidden gems for those who enjoy architecture and local life.

Can I see the Roman Theater for free?

You can see the theater from the outside plaza (Hashemite Plaza) for free, but entering the seating area and the attached museums requires a small fee or the Jordan Pass.

Best time to explore Jabal Al Lweibdeh?

Late afternoon is best. The neighborhood comes alive with locals visiting cafes, and the lighting on the stone buildings is perfect for photography.

Are the stairs in Amman safe for solo travelers?

Yes, the stairs are generally very safe and are used daily by locals. However, like any city, it is best to explore during daylight hours and stay aware of your surroundings.

Where can I find the best street art in Amman?

The Al Kalha Stairs and the neighborhood of Jabal Al Lweibdeh are the city's primary hubs for street art, featuring works by both local and international artists.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Amman is a city of layers, a limestone labyrinth built across seven primary hills. To truly understand the capital of Jordan, one must leave the main roads and take to the stairs. This self-guided walk, titled "The Vertical City," explores the intricate network of staircases that connect the historic heights of Jabal Amman and Jabal Al Lweibdeh to the ancient Roman heart of the downtown core, known as Al-Balad. These stairs are more than just functional shortcuts; they are social hubs, canvases for street art, and silent witnesses to the city's transformation from a provincial Ottoman outpost to a bustling modern metropolis. As you begin your self-guided adventure, you will encounter the architectural elegance of the early 20th century on Mango Street, where the city's elite once built their villas. The route then plunges downward via the Al Kalha Stairs, a vibrant corridor of murals and coffee shops that captures the bohemian spirit of modern Amman. This neighborhood stroll offers a unique perspective on how the city’s geography has shaped its social fabric, providing countless opportunities for photography and quiet reflection away from the traffic. A walking tour Amman enthusiasts often recommend involves visiting the Roman Theater, a monumental relic of the ancient city of Philadelphia. Sitting at the base of the hills, this site serves as a reminder of the deep historical roots that ground the "Vertical City." Moving from the ancient to the contemporary, the route highlights spaces like Dar Al-Anda, where traditional architecture meets modern artistic expression. Exploring Amman independently allows you to pause and appreciate the play of light on the honey-colored stone and the rhythmic calls to prayer echoing across the valleys. While many might look for a guided tour Amman provides, this independent walking route gives you the freedom to navigate the steep terrain at your own pace. The journey concludes at a panoramic viewpoint, offering a sweeping look at the sprawling urban landscape you have just traversed. Whether you are a photography lover or a history buff, this walking route reveals the hidden gems tucked away in the folds of Amman's hills, far beyond the standard tourist paths. By the end of this neighborhood stroll, you will have experienced the soul of the city through its most characteristic feature: its stairs.

Highlights

Traverse the historic Mango Street Stairs connecting Jabal Amman to downtown

Explore the vibrant street art and bohemian cafes of the Al Kalha Stairs

Visit Dar Al-Anda, a stunning art gallery in a restored traditional villa

Stand in the center of the massive 6,000-seat ancient Roman Theater

Take in panoramic views of the city's limestone hills and the Citadel

Experience the contrasting vibes of Jabal Amman, Lweibdeh, and Al-Balad

Tour Stops (5)

Mango Street Stairs

Welcome to the start of your journey through the vertical city. These stairs connect the prestigious Mango Street in Jabal Amman—named after the prominent Mango family who built some of the area's first grand villas—to the bustling markets of the downtown valley. As you begin your descent, notice the transition in architecture. Up here, the buildings reflect the early 20th-century wealth of Amman, with clean lines and large balconies. These stairs are a classic example of how Amman's residents have navigated the city's steep topography for decades. Take a moment to look down the flight; you are literally stepping from the elite residential heights into the commercial heart of the old city.

Al Kalha Stairs

You are now at one of Amman's most famous social arteries. The Al Kalha Stairs link the downtown area to the artistic neighborhood of Jabal Al Lweibdeh. Unlike the more formal Mango Stairs, Al Kalha is a living gallery. The walls here are frequently updated with vibrant murals and graffiti that reflect the political and social pulse of Jordan's youth. This is a favorite hangout for locals to grab a coffee or a game of backgammon at the small cafes lining the steps. The stairs represent the bohemian side of the city, where tradition meets contemporary urban culture. It is the perfect spot to capture the 'Vertical City' theme with your camera.

Dar Al-Anda Art Gallery

Leaving the stairs for a moment, you enter the serene world of Dar Al-Anda. This art gallery is housed in a beautifully restored complex of buildings dating back to the 1930s. The name translates to 'home of the giving,' and it serves as a cultural hub for regional artists. Pay close attention to the architectural details: the arched windows, the limestone masonry, and the way the building clings to the slope of Jabal Al Lweibdeh. The gallery often features terrace views that show the layers of the city you are exploring. It is a testament to how Amman preserves its historic structures by repurposing them into vibrant centers for modern creativity.

Roman Theater

You have reached the literal and historical bottom of the valley. The Roman Theater is a staggering masterpiece of engineering from the 2nd century AD, when Amman was known as Philadelphia. Carved directly into the side of a hill, it could once hold 6,000 spectators. Notice how the theater is oriented north to keep the sun off the audience. Standing on the stage and looking up at the steep rows of seats, you get a true sense of the verticality that has defined this settlement for two millennia. This was the civic heart of the ancient city, and today it remains a primary gathering place for Amman's diverse population.

Abdali Viewpoint

For the final stop, we have moved toward the Al-Abdali area to look back at what you have conquered. From this vantage point, the 'Vertical City' is laid bare. You can see the sea of beige limestone houses—Amman's signature color—spilling down the hillsides like a stone waterfall. From here, you can spot the Citadel on the opposite hill and the Roman Theater you just visited. This view highlights the contrast between the 'Old Amman' of the Jabals and the 'New Amman' of the modern high-rises. It is a place to reflect on the thousands of steps you have taken and the complex history of a city that refuses to be flat.

Frequently Asked Questions

The 'Vertical City' route is ideal for views, as it traverses the major hills of Jabal Amman and Lweibdeh. You will see the city from various elevations, culminating in a panoramic viewpoint near Abdali.