How long does it take to walk through downtown Amman?

A focused walk takes about 90 to 120 minutes. The distance is short (under 2 kilometers), but the crowds and the temptation to stop for food at every corner will slow you down.

Is a guided tour Amman necessary to see the markets?

No, a guided tour is not necessary; Al-Balad is very navigable on your own. Using a self-guided audio walk allows you to move at your own pace and interact with vendors without a group.

Can I find vegetarian food on this Amman walking route?

Yes, Jordanian street food is exceptionally vegetarian-friendly. Most of the stops, including Hashem and AlQuds, focus on falafel, hummus, and vegetable-based dishes.

Is Hashem Restaurant really worth the hype?

Absolutely. While it is simple and no-frills, the quality of the hummus and falafel is consistently high, and the historic, bustling atmosphere is an essential Amman experience.

When is the best time to visit the Al-Balad markets?

Late afternoon is ideal. The markets are in full swing, the evening lights begin to flicker on, and the temperature is cooler for walking.

Is the downtown area of Amman safe for solo travelers?

Yes, Al-Balad is very safe for solo travelers. Jordanians are famously hospitable, though you should expect a high-energy environment with lots of people and noise.

Do I need to carry cash for street food in Amman?

Yes, cash is essential. Most small street food vendors and market stalls do not accept credit cards, though larger cafes like Jafra might.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Amman’s downtown, known locally as Al-Balad, is the beating heart of the Jordanian capital, a place where history is measured in the layers of stone and the aroma of sizzling spices. This self-guided walk invites you to dive into the sensory chaos of one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world. As you navigate the winding alleys, you will experience the authentic flavor of Jordan, far beyond the polished surfaces of modern shopping malls. This neighborhood stroll is designed for those who want to explore independently, allowing you to linger over a cup of sage tea or wait for a fresh batch of honey-soaked sweets without a rigid schedule. The route focuses on the legendary culinary landmarks that have defined Amman’s food scene for decades. You will begin at the vibrant Souq al-Sukar, the fruit and vegetable market, where the calls of vendors provide a rhythmic soundtrack to the daily trade. From there, the walk transitions from the traditional to the creative, passing through a hub of local artistry before reaching the 'holy trinity' of Amman’s food culture: the world-famous Habibah Sweets, the historic Hashem Restaurant, and the bohemian Jafra Café. These aren't just places to eat; they are social institutions where kings and street sweepers have sat side-by-side for generations. By following this walking route, you’ll discover how Al-Balad manages to be both a relic of the past and a thriving contemporary center. You will see how the city's topography—built across seven hills—funnels life down into this central valley. Whether you are sampling the creamiest hummus in the Levant or admiring the street art that breathes new life into old facades, this walking tour Amman offers is a deep dive into the soul of the city. Discover the stories behind the recipes and the people who have kept these fires burning for over seventy years on this immersive urban adventure. **Note:** This area is known for its ever-changing character. Street art, pop-up venues, and temporary exhibitions may differ from what's described. That's part of the adventure - you might discover something entirely new!

Highlights

Navigate the vibrant stalls of the historic Fruit and Vegetable Market

Sample legendary Nabulsi Kunafeh at Habibah Sweets

Eat at Hashem, the 1952 landmark frequented by the Royal Family

Experience the bohemian atmosphere and balcony views at Jafra Café

Discover the intersection of local art and hospitality at The Art Hotel

Grab a world-class falafel sandwich at the iconic AlQuds

Tour Stops (6)

Fruits and Vegetables Market (Souq al-Sukar)

Welcome to the sensory explosion that is Souq al-Sukar, the 'Sugar Market.' Despite the name, this is Amman’s primary hub for fresh produce. As you walk through, notice how the vendors arrange their goods with architectural precision—pyramids of glossy eggplants, stacks of fragrant mint, and seasonal treasures like green almonds or desert truffles. This market has been the lifeblood of Al-Balad for decades. It is a place of loud haggling and incredible generosity; don't be surprised if a vendor offers you a slice of fruit to taste. The produce here comes from the Jordan Valley, one of the lowest and most fertile points on Earth, ensuring the flavors are intense and fresh. This is the perfect place to witness the daily rhythm of local life.

The Art Hotel

Tucked away in the bustle of downtown is The Art Hotel, a testament to Amman’s growing contemporary creative scene. This boutique space serves as a bridge between the city's historic grit and its modern artistic aspirations. Each room and common area features work by local Jordanian artists, showcasing everything from traditional calligraphy to modern street art styles. This stop highlights how Al-Balad is reinventing itself; while the buildings are old, the energy inside is youthful and forward-looking. Take a moment to appreciate the murals on the exterior and nearby walls—street art in Amman often carries deep social and cultural messages, turning the city’s limestone walls into a public gallery. Note that exhibitions change frequently, offering a new perspective with every visit.

Habibah Sweets - Downtown

You are now standing at a site of culinary pilgrimage. Habibah Sweets has been serving its famous Kunafeh since 1951. Kunafeh is a Levantine cheese pastry soaked in sweet, sugar-based syrup; at Habibah, it is topped with either crunchy shredded phyllo or a fine semolina dough. You will likely see a long line snaking down the narrow alleyway next to the shop—join it! There is no seating here; the tradition is to take your warm plate and eat it standing in the alley or perched on a nearby stone ledge. The secret to their success is the high-quality Nabulsi cheese, which provides a salty counterpoint to the sweet syrup. It is the ultimate Amman comfort food and an essential stop for any food lover.

Hashem Restaurant

Hashem is more than a restaurant; it is a legend. Established in 1952, this open-air eatery has hosted everyone from backpackers to King Abdullah II. There is no formal menu here. You sit down, and soon your table is covered with the classics: incredibly fluffy falafel, smooth hummus drizzled with olive oil, smoky mutabal (eggplant dip), and fresh pita bread. The restaurant is famous for being open 24/7 and for its 'down-to-earth' philosophy where everyone is treated equally. Look around at the walls lined with photos of famous visitors, but notice that the focus remains entirely on the food. The speed of service is legendary, and the falafel—stuffed with onions and sumac—is often cited as the best in the country.

Jafra Restaurant & Cafe

To reach Jafra, you must head upstairs, leaving the noise of the street for a bohemian sanctuary. Named after a famous Palestinian folk poem about a beloved woman, Jafra is a cultural hub where students, artists, and intellectuals gather. The interior is decorated with nostalgic items: old radios, vintage posters, and rustic wood. If you can, snag a seat on the balcony overlooking the street to watch the world go by below. This is the ideal spot to try Jordanian coffee flavored with cardamom or a refreshing 'lemon with mint' juice. The atmosphere here captures the 'Ammani' spirit—relaxed, hospitable, and deeply rooted in Levantine heritage. It’s a place where time seems to slow down amidst the city's frantic pace.

AlQuds Falafel

Our final stop is AlQuds Falafel, a small shop with a massive reputation. While Hashem is famous for the sit-down experience, AlQuds is the master of the falafel sandwich. Since 1966, they have been perfecting the art of the 'ka’ak' sandwich—sesame bread stuffed with hot falafel, hard-boiled eggs, and a smear of chili paste if you’re brave. This shop became particularly famous when the late King Hussein was known to stop by for a quick snack. It represents the quintessential street food experience: fast, affordable, and consistently delicious. As you enjoy your sandwich, you are standing at the threshold where the old Al-Balad begins to climb the hills toward the more modern districts, a perfect place to reflect on your journey through Amman’s flavors.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Al-Balad street food walk is widely considered the best for foodies. It covers iconic institutions like Hashem and Habibah Sweets, allowing you to taste authentic Jordanian staples within a few blocks of each other.