Is Retiro Park free to enter?

Yes, entrance to Retiro Park is completely free for everyone. There are no fees to enter the gardens or the Palacio de Cristal, though rowboat rentals on the lake do require a small payment.

What is the best walking tour Madrid for nature lovers?

A stroll through Retiro Park is the top choice for nature lovers in the city. It offers a mix of formal French gardens, wilder wooded areas, and the stunning Rose Garden, all while remaining in the city center.

Can I go inside the Palacio de Cristal?

Yes, you can usually enter the Palacio de Cristal during its opening hours. It often hosts temporary art installations from the Reina Sofía Museum, and there is no admission fee to go inside.

Is there a guided tour Madrid for the park's history?

While many companies offer group visits, a self-guided audio walk is a popular way to explore the park's royal history independently. This allows you to learn about landmarks like the Casón del Buen Retiro at your own pace without a group schedule.

Where is the statue of the Devil in Madrid?

The Fountain of the Fallen Angel (Fuente del Ángel Caído) is located in the southern part of Retiro Park. It is famous for being one of the only public monuments to Lucifer and is situated near the Rose Garden.

What are the park's opening hours?

Retiro Park typically opens at 6:00 AM daily. It closes at midnight during the summer months (April to September) and at 10:00 PM during the winter (October to March).

Is Retiro Park wheelchair accessible?

Yes, Retiro Park is highly accessible. Most of the main paths are wide and paved or made of hard-packed fine gravel, making it easy for wheelchairs and strollers to navigate throughout the main attractions.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Retiro Park, or El Retiro, is often called the 'Lungs of Madrid,' but it is far more than just a green space. This neighborhood stroll takes you through the heart of the Paisaje de la Luz, a UNESCO World Heritage site that blends culture, science, and nature. Originally established in the 17th century as a private retreat for King Philip IV, the park transitioned from a royal sanctuary to a public masterpiece. On this self-guided walk, you will uncover the layers of history hidden within its 350 acres, from the remnants of a vanished palace to avant-garde glass architecture. The route is designed for those who appreciate history and photography, offering a sequence of iconic vistas and quiet corners. You will begin at the Casón del Buen Retiro, one of the few surviving pieces of the original royal palace complex. From there, the walking route leads you to the Great Pond, where the massive monument to Alfonso XII dominates the horizon. As you explore independently, you will encounter the Palacio de Cristal, a stunning structure of iron and glass that reflects beautifully in its surrounding lake. The journey continues toward more mysterious landmarks, including a fountain dedicated to the Fallen Angel and the fragrant rows of the Rose Garden. This walking tour Madrid experience concludes at the majestic Puerta de Alcalá, the neoclassical gate that once served as the main entrance to the city. Whether you are interested in the botanical diversity of the gardens or the royal intrigue of the Spanish court, this route provides a comprehensive look at Madrid's most beloved park. You can move at your own pace, stopping to watch the rowboats on the lake or capturing the perfect light hitting the marble statues. It is an essential travel experience for anyone wanting to understand the soul of Madrid beyond its busy streets.

Highlights

Marvel at the Casón del Buen Retiro, a surviving wing of a 17th-century palace.

See the iconic Monument to Alfonso XII overlooking the Great Pond.

Photograph the Palacio de Cristal, a masterpiece of iron and glass architecture.

Visit the Fountain of the Fallen Angel, one of the world's few statues of Lucifer.

Wander through the Rose Garden (La Rosaleda) featuring over 4,000 bushes.

End at the Puerta de Alcalá, the historic gateway to the city of Madrid.

Tour Stops (6)

El Casón del Buen Retiro

Begin your self-guided adventure at the Casón del Buen Retiro. This building is one of the only remaining parts of the Buen Retiro Palace, which was mostly destroyed during the Napoleonic Wars. Built in 1637, it originally served as a ballroom for the court of Philip IV. If you look up at the facade, you are seeing a piece of history that once hosted the most lavish parties in Europe. Today, it is part of the Prado Museum complex and houses a magnificent library. The ceiling inside features a famous fresco by Luca Giordano, celebrating the Spanish Monarchy. It serves as a somber reminder of the vast palace that once occupied these grounds before the park became a public space.

Estanque Grande del Retiro

As you approach the Great Pond, you are entering the social heart of the park. This man-made lake was originally designed for mock naval battles, known as naumachia, to entertain the royal family. Today, the scene is much more peaceful, with locals and visitors alike enjoying rowboats. Dominating the eastern shore is the Monument to Alfonso XII, a massive colonnade featuring an equestrian statue of the king. Take a moment to appreciate the scale of the marble and bronze work here. The monument was completed in 1922 and remains one of the most photographed spots in the city. It is a perfect place to pause and observe the vibrant energy of Madrid life.

Palacio de Cristal

The Palacio de Cristal is perhaps the most ethereal stop on your neighborhood stroll. Built in 1887 by architect Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, it was modeled after London's Crystal Palace. It was originally intended as a giant greenhouse to display tropical plants from the Philippines, which was then a Spanish colony. The structure is made almost entirely of glass and iron, resting on a brick base decorated with beautiful ceramics. Because it sits next to a small lake with a fountain and cypress trees, the reflections are spectacular. Today, it is used by the Reina Sofía Museum for contemporary art installations, making it a unique fusion of 19th-century engineering and modern creative expression.

Fountain of the Fallen Angel

This stop features one of Madrid's most curious and debated landmarks: the Fuente del Ángel Caído. Created by Ricardo Bellver in 1877, it depicts the moment Lucifer is cast out of Heaven. It is often cited as one of the few public monuments in the world dedicated to the devil. Beyond its controversial subject, there is a fascinating geographical coincidence: the statue is said to sit exactly 666 meters above sea level. The base of the fountain is equally intriguing, decorated with bronze devils and serpents. While it might seem dark, the artistry is exceptional, capturing intense emotion and movement in the bronze figure. It remains a must-see for those interested in the park's more mysterious side.

Rose Garden

Step into La Rosaleda, a classic rose garden designed in 1915 by the park's head gardener, Cecilio Rodríguez. He was inspired by the Bagatelle rose garden in Paris and wanted to create a space of supreme elegance. The garden is home to over 4,000 rose bushes of various species, arranged in symmetrical beds. If you visit during May or June, the fragrance and color are overwhelming. Even outside of peak blooming season, the garden offers a tranquil atmosphere with its pergolas and fountains. It is a testament to the meticulous landscaping that has defined Retiro for centuries. It provides a quiet contrast to the more crowded areas near the Great Pond.

Puerta de Alcalá

Your walk concludes at the Puerta de Alcalá, standing proudly in the center of Plaza de la Independencia. Designed by Francesco Sabatini and inaugurated in 1778, this neoclassical gate was commissioned by King Charles III to replace an earlier, smaller gate. It was once the main eastern entrance to Madrid, marking the road to the city of Alcalá de Henares. Look closely at the two sides; they are actually different in design, a rare architectural quirk. As one of the five ancient royal gates of the city, it has survived wars and urban expansion to become an enduring symbol of Madrid. From here, you are perfectly positioned to explore the nearby Salamanca district or head back toward the city center.

Frequently Asked Questions

A typical self-guided walk takes between 2 to 3 hours. This allows time to see the main monuments, visit the Crystal Palace, and enjoy a short break by the lake. The total distance covered is approximately 3 to 4 kilometers.