How long does it take to walk the Mile End route?

The walk takes approximately 60 to 90 minutes. This includes time to stop for a bagel at St-Viateur or Fairmount and to browse the shelves at Drawn & Quarterly bookstore.

Is the Mile End worth visiting for food lovers?

Yes, it is essential for foodies. The neighborhood is home to Montreal's most famous bagel shops and the historic Wilensky's Light Lunch, offering a taste of the city's Jewish culinary heritage.

Which bagel shop is better: St-Viateur or Fairmount?

It is a matter of personal preference! Fairmount is the oldest, established in 1919, while St-Viateur (1957) is equally iconic; locals are often fiercely loyal to one or the other.

Can I see bagels being made on this walk?

Yes, both St-Viateur and Fairmount Bagel have open kitchens. You can watch the bakers hand-rolling the dough and using long paddles to move bagels in and out of the wood-fired ovens.

Is this walking route accessible for strollers?

The sidewalks in the Mile End are generally wide and flat, making the route stroller-friendly. However, the interiors of the bagel shops and Wilensky's are quite small and can get crowded.

What is the Wilensky Special?

The Wilensky Special is a famous sandwich consisting of all-beef salami and bologna with mustard on a pressed roll. It has been served the same way since 1932 and is a must-try at the end of the walk.

When is the best time to visit the Mile End?

Late morning on a weekday is ideal to avoid the largest crowds. While the bagel shops are open 24/7, other stops like the Rialto Theatre and bookstores have standard daytime business hours.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Step into the heart of Montreal’s most eclectic neighborhood with this self-guided walk through the Mile End. Known as a melting pot of artistic innovation, Jewish heritage, and world-class culinary traditions, the Mile End offers a unique atmosphere that feels both historic and cutting-edge. This neighborhood stroll invites you to wander past iconic landmarks where the smell of wood-fired ovens fills the air and the legacy of literary giants lingers on every street corner. On this walking route, you will discover why the Mile End has become the epicenter of Montreal's bohemian spirit. You’ll begin at the majestic St. Viator Catholic Church, a cornerstone of the community, before diving into the friendly rivalry that defines the city: the battle of the bagels. Comparing the offerings of St-Viateur and Fairmount Bagel is a rite of passage for any visitor. Beyond the food, this route highlights the architectural grandeur of the Rialto Theatre, a designated National Historic Site that brings a touch of Parisian elegance to the area. Literary enthusiasts will find a sanctuary at Librairie Drawn & Quarterly, an world-renowned hub for graphic novels and independent publishing that perfectly captures the neighborhood's creative pulse. The journey concludes at Wilensky's Light Lunch, a family-run institution immortalized in Canadian literature. This walking tour Montreal experience is designed for those who want to explore independently, allowing you to linger at a bookstore or wait for a fresh batch of sesame bagels without the pressure of a group schedule. Whether you are a fan of architecture, a lover of indie culture, or a foodie on a mission, this self-guided adventure provides a deep dive into the stories that make the Mile End one of the coolest neighborhoods in the world. It is a perfect way to experience the authentic Montreal lifestyle at your own pace while soaking in the sights and sounds of this vibrant district.

Highlights

Experience the legendary Montreal bagel rivalry between St-Viateur and Fairmount

Admire the Parisian-inspired architecture of the historic Rialto Theatre

Visit the world-renowned Librairie Drawn & Quarterly bookstore

Step back in time at Wilensky's Light Lunch, a local institution since 1932

Discover the stunning Neo-Baroque interior of St. Viator Catholic Church

Soak in the artistic and literary atmosphere of Montreal's most creative district

Tour Stops (6)

St. Viator Catholic Church

Welcome to the start of your neighborhood stroll. St. Viator Catholic Church, or Église Saint-Viateur d'Outremont, is a stunning example of Neo-Baroque architecture completed in 1911. As you look at its intricate facade, consider its role as a spiritual and social anchor for the community for over a century. The interior is renowned for its beautiful woodwork and paintings by Guido Nincheri, an artist whose work graces many of Montreal's most important religious sites. This church serves as a quiet, dignified gateway to the bustling, creative streets of the Mile End that lie just ahead.

St-Viateur Bagel

You are now standing in front of a Montreal legend. St-Viateur Bagel has been hand-rolling and wood-firing bagels since 1957. Unlike New York bagels, these are boiled in honey-infused water before being baked, giving them a distinct sweetness and a dense, chewy texture. Notice the stacks of wood near the oven; that’s the secret to the perfect crust. This shop is open 24/7, serving as a beacon for hungry locals at all hours. Grab a hot sesame bagel—the classic choice—and enjoy a quintessential taste of the Mile End's Jewish heritage.

Rialto Theatre

The Rialto Theatre is one of the most beautiful buildings in Montreal. Built in 1923, its design was inspired by the Paris Opera House, featuring a Louis XVI-style facade and a lavish interior with stained glass and marble. Originally a silent film palace, it has survived decades of change to remain a vital performing arts venue. As a National Historic Site of Canada, it represents the golden age of cinema and the neighborhood's long-standing connection to the arts. Take a moment to appreciate the ornate details that make this a true architectural gem of the Mile End.

Librairie Drawn & Quarterly

This isn't just a bookstore; it’s a cultural landmark. Librairie Drawn & Quarterly is the flagship store for the world-famous graphic novel publisher of the same name. It has played a massive role in cementing the Mile End's reputation as a literary and artistic hub. Inside, you'll find a carefully curated selection of graphic novels, local literature, and international titles. The store frequently hosts readings and events, acting as a living room for the city's creative community. It perfectly encapsulates the independent, intellectual spirit that defines this part of Montreal.

Fairmount Bagel

The second half of Montreal's great bagel debate brings us to Fairmount Bagel. Founded in 1919 by Isadore Shlafman, this was the first bagel bakery in Montreal. The Shlafman family still runs the business today, using the same traditional methods passed down through generations. While St-Viateur has its devotees, Fairmount fans swear by the specific crunch and flavor of these rings. Whether you prefer the original shop or the newcomer on St-Viateur Street, there’s no denying that this tiny bakery is a cornerstone of Montreal’s culinary identity.

Wilensky's Light Lunch Inc

Your walk concludes at Wilensky's, a family-run lunch counter that has remained largely unchanged since it opened at this location in 1952. It was famously featured in Mordecai Richler's novel 'The Apprenticeship of Duddy Kravitz.' When you order the 'Wilensky Special'—a bologna and salami sandwich on a pressed roll—remember the house rules: it’s always served with mustard, and never cut in half. This spot is a time capsule of the neighborhood's working-class roots and Jewish immigrant history, providing a delicious and nostalgic end to your Mile End exploration.

Frequently Asked Questions

The 'Bagels and Books' route by Zigway is the best self-guided option. It covers about 1.5 kilometers and focuses on the unique culinary and literary history of the area, including the famous bagel rivalry.