The Matte: Bern’s Secret Lower City

Walking tour in Bern

1 hr 40 min
Duration
6
Stops
Moderate
Difficulty
hidden-gemsculture

About This Tour

Descend beneath the iconic sandstone spires of Bern’s UNESCO-listed Old Town to find a world apart. The Matte, or the 'Lower City,' is Bern’s oldest neighborhood, tucked away on a peninsula along the banks of the Aare River. This self-guided walk invites you to explore a district that was once the industrial heartbeat of the city, home to laborers, boatmen, and craftsmen who developed their own unique culture and even their own secret language. While the upper city was reserved for the nobility and administration, the Matte was a place of grit, water power, and trade. On this neighborhood stroll, you will experience the dramatic shift in atmosphere as you move from the bustling upper markets down to the quiet, riverside lanes. The route highlights the ingenious ways the city connected its two levels, from the historic Matte lift to the steep 'Mattentreppe' stairs. You will discover the Mühlenplatz, where the rushing waters of the Aare once powered the mills that fed the city, and see how former industrial spaces like the Cinématte have been transformed into vibrant cultural hubs. This walking route is perfect for those looking for hidden-gems away from the typical tourist paths. You will learn about the legendary 'Mattenenglisch,' a secret dialect used by the locals to communicate without being understood by the authorities in the upper town. The walk concludes at the Gaskessel, a symbol of Bern’s alternative scene housed in former gas tanks, showcasing the district's evolution from an industrial zone to a center for youth culture and art. Whether you are interested in industrial heritage, unique linguistics, or simply a peaceful walk by the turquoise waters of the Aare, this self-guided adventure offers a deep dive into the soul of Bern. This walking tour Bern experience is designed for independent travelers who want to uncover the secrets of the Swiss capital at their own pace.

Highlights

  • The historic Matte-Plattform lift connecting the two levels of the city
  • Mühlenplatz, the former industrial heart of Bern on the Aare river
  • The unique history of Mattenenglisch, the neighborhood's secret dialect
  • Cinématte, a boutique cinema in a converted industrial building
  • Gaskessel, one of Europe's oldest alternative cultural centers
  • Stunning riverside views of the turquoise Aare river

Route Map

Route map for The Matte: Bern’s Secret Lower City

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour

Tour Stops (6)

1

Lötschberg

Welcome to the starting point of your exploration. While the upper town of Bern is famous for its arcades and fountains, we are beginning near the transition point to the 'Lower City.' The area around Lötschberg represents the traditional Bernese spirit. From here, you are standing on the high plateau of the Old Town, built on a sandstone ridge. Beneath you lies the Matte district. Historically, there was a strict social divide between where you are now and the riverbanks below. As you begin this self-guided walk, imagine the porters and laborers who spent their days hauling goods up from the river to these very streets.

2

Personenaufzug Matte-Plattform AG

This is the Matte lift, a mechanical marvel that has connected the Minster Terrace to the Matte district since 1897. Before this lift existed, the only way to move between the two levels was by climbing hundreds of stone steps. The lift was a revolutionary addition for the workers of the Matte, allowing them easier access to the upper city. As you stand here, look down at the roofs of the Matte; you’ll notice they are significantly lower than the rest of Bern. The lift remains a vital piece of local infrastructure, embodying the vertical nature of Bern’s urban planning.

3

Cinématte

Located in a former schoolhouse and industrial building, Cinématte is a testament to the Matte’s transformation. In the 19th century, this neighborhood was loud, damp, and crowded with factories. Today, it is a cultural sanctuary. This boutique cinema and restaurant focuses on independent films, keeping the artistic spirit of the district alive. The building itself reflects the sturdy, functional architecture required for life by the river. It’s a great example of how Bern preserves its historic structures while giving them new, creative purposes for the modern community.

4

Mühlenplatz

You are now standing in Mühlenplatz, or Mill Square. For centuries, this was the engine room of Bern. The power of the Aare river was harnessed here to drive waterwheels for mills that produced flour, paper, and even chocolate. The 'Schwelle' or weir you see nearby was crucial for directing the water flow. Because of its proximity to the water, the Matte was frequently hit by floods, most notably in 1999 and 2005. The resilience of the 'Mattegiele' (the boys from the Matte) is legendary in local folklore, as they have rebuilt their neighborhood time and time again.

5

Mattequartier

As you stroll through the heart of the Mattequartier, listen closely to the locals. This neighborhood is the birthplace of 'Mattenenglisch,' a unique sociolect. It wasn't actually English, but a form of Pig Latin used by the working class to keep their conversations private from the 'Gnädige Herren' or the upper-class lords of the city. Though fewer people speak it fluently today, the dialect is a source of immense local pride. Notice the narrow streets and the way the houses seem to huddle together; this layout was designed to maximize space on the limited land between the cliffs and the river.

6

Gaskessel Bern

Our route concludes at the Gaskessel, one of the oldest youth and cultural centers in Europe. These two spherical structures were originally built as gasometers for the city’s gasworks. In the early 1970s, following youth protests for more autonomous spaces, the city allowed the conversion of these industrial relics into a venue for music, art, and theater. It stands as a vibrant contrast to the medieval stone of the Old Town. From here, you can enjoy a peaceful walk back along the Aare river or head toward the Marzili area to return to the city center.

Frequently Asked Questions

The Matte district walk is widely considered the best route for hidden gems. It takes you away from the main tourist shops and into a historic, riverside neighborhood with a unique secret language and industrial past.

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