How long does it take to walk through Ano Poli?

A thorough self-guided walk takes between 2 to 3 hours. The distance is only about 2-3 kilometers, but the steep elevation and time spent exploring monasteries like Vlatadon add to the duration.

Is the climb to the Thessaloniki fortress difficult?

Yes, it is considered a challenging walk due to the steep incline and cobblestone streets. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, and frequent breaks are recommended for those not used to uphill trekking.

Can I see the sunset from the Thessaloniki city walls?

Absolutely, the Trigonion Tower is the premier spot for sunset. It offers an unobstructed 180-degree view of the city, the sea, and Mount Olympus in the distance.

Are the churches in Ano Poli free to enter?

Most Byzantine churches in Ano Poli, such as Hosios David and St. Nicholas Orphanos, are free to enter. However, they have strict opening hours, often closing in the mid-afternoon, so plan your walk for the morning.

What is the Heptapyrgion known for?

The Heptapyrgion is a Byzantine and Ottoman fortress that famously served as a high-security prison for much of the 20th century. It is a symbol of both the city's defense and its darker political history.

Is Ano Poli worth visiting?

Yes, it is the most atmospheric part of Thessaloniki. It is the only district that retains the traditional Ottoman architecture and provides a peaceful escape from the modern city's traffic.

How do I get back to the city center from the fortress?

You can take Bus line 23 from the 'Eptapyrgio' stop, which goes directly to the city center. Alternatively, walking back down through the narrow stairs of the neighborhood takes about 20 minutes.

Zigway - The Guide Follows You

About This Tour

Rising above the modern skyline of Thessaloniki, the district of Ano Poli, or the 'Upper Town,' feels like a journey back through the centuries. This self-guided walk invites you to explore the only part of the city that largely survived the Great Fire of 1917, preserving a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone alleys, traditional Ottoman-style timber houses, and some of the most significant Byzantine monuments in the world. As you begin your self-guided adventure, you will leave the bustling port behind for a vertical ascent toward the fortress heights. This neighborhood stroll is not just a lesson in history; it is a sensory experience where the scent of jasmine mingles with the sound of local life in quiet courtyards. The route focuses on the spiritual and military backbone of Thessaloniki, from hidden monasteries tucked into hillsides to the massive stone bastions that once protected the city from invaders. Highlights include the UNESCO-listed mosaics of Hosios David and the sweeping panoramic views from the Trigonion Tower, where the Thermaic Gulf stretches out toward Mount Olympus. This walking route Thessaloniki offers is physically demanding but deeply rewarding for those who wish to see the city as it was centuries ago. By exploring independently, you can take the time to appreciate the intricate frescoes of Saint Nicholas Orphanos or sit in the mystical, ruin-filled Pasha’s Gardens without the rush of a schedule. This audio walk provides the historical context needed to understand how Thessaloniki transitioned from a Byzantine stronghold to an Ottoman capital and finally to the vibrant Greek metropolis it is today. Discover the 'Seven Towers' of the Heptapyrgion and the stories of the prisoners who once looked out from its walls, all while enjoying the cool breeze that only reaches these historic heights.

Highlights

The rare 5th-century mosaic of a beardless Christ at Hosios David

Panoramic sunset views from the massive Trigonion Tower

The peacocks and serene atmosphere of the 14th-century Vlatadon Monastery

The Gaudi-esque mystical stone structures of Pasha’s Gardens

Intricate frescoes inside the hidden Church of Saint Nicholas Orphanos

The imposing battlements and prison history of the Heptapyrgion fortress

Tour Stops (6)

Latomos Monastery - Holy Church of Hosios David

Tucked away in the winding streets of Ano Poli, this small, unassuming church holds one of the most remarkable treasures of the Byzantine world. Originally the chapel of the Latomos Monastery, it dates back to the late 5th century. The highlight here is the stunning mosaic in the apse, depicting a vision of Christ as a young, beardless man—a rare iconographic style. Legend says the mosaic was covered with calfskin and plaster to protect it during the iconoclastic period and was only rediscovered centuries later. The church’s humble size and peaceful courtyard provide a perfect, quiet start to your climb through history.

Vlatadon Monastery

As you continue your ascent, you reach the Vlatadon Monastery, the only Byzantine monastery in Thessaloniki that has remained continuously active since its founding in the 14th century. Established by the brothers Dorotheus and Mark Vlatis, it is built on the spot where tradition says the Apostle Paul preached during his visit to the city. Beyond its historical significance, the monastery is famous for its resident peacocks and its terrace, which offers one of the most famous views of Thessaloniki. Look out over the rooftops toward the sea; on a clear day, the peaks of Mount Olympus are visible on the horizon.

Trigonion Tower

Standing at the northeastern corner of the city walls, the Trigonion (or Chain) Tower is a masterpiece of late 15th-century military architecture. Built by the Ottomans to reinforce the existing Byzantine fortifications, it served as a primary defensive bastion against naval and land attacks. Its circular shape and thick walls were designed to withstand the artillery of the era. This spot marks the transition between the residential neighborhood and the fortress heights. It is the most popular viewpoint in the city, especially as the sun begins to dip below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the old city walls.

Pasha’s Gardens

Just outside the eastern walls lies one of Thessaloniki's most enigmatic sites. Built in 1904, these gardens are filled with stone structures that look like something out of a dream—or a Gaudi masterpiece. With their organic shapes and mysterious symbols, the gardens have long been the subject of local legends involving secret societies and mystical energies. While much of the original park was destroyed, the remaining ruins offer a hauntingly beautiful place to wander. It is a sharp contrast to the rigid military lines of the nearby fortress, providing a touch of early 20th-century romanticism and mystery to your walk.

Holy Church of Saint Nicholas Orphanos

Descending slightly back into the greenery of the lower Ano Poli, you find the Church of Saint Nicholas Orphanos. This 14th-century gem is known for having some of the most well-preserved and detailed Byzantine frescoes in Greece. The interior is a riot of color, depicting scenes from the life of Saint Nicholas and the liturgical calendar. The 'Orphan' in its name likely refers to a founder from the Orphanos family or the church’s role in caring for orphans. Its secluded garden, filled with trees and flowers, makes it feel like a secret sanctuary far removed from the modern city below.

Heptapyrgion of Thessaloniki

Your journey concludes at the highest point of the city: the Heptapyrgion, or 'Fortress of the Seven Towers.' While its name suggests seven towers, it actually features ten. Originally a Byzantine citadel, it was later converted by the Ottomans into a fortress and, eventually, into a notorious prison that operated until 1989. The history here is heavy; it was a place of exile and suffering for many political prisoners throughout the 20th century. Today, you can explore the courtyards and walk along the ramparts, reflecting on the layers of military and social history that have shaped Thessaloniki from this commanding height.

Frequently Asked Questions

The most rewarding route starts at Hosios David and climbs toward the Heptapyrgion fortress. This path covers the major UNESCO sites and provides the best panoramic views of the city and Thermaic Gulf.