Bergen is famous for its rainy weather and Hanseatic wharf, but the true soul of the city lies in the 'smau'—the narrow, winding alleys that climb the steep slopes of Mount Fløyen. This self-guided walk invites you to step away from the tourist crowds and explore the Fjellsiden neighborhood, a labyrinth of white-painted wooden houses, cobblestone steps, and secret gardens. As you wander, you'll discover why these historic lanes are a photographer's dream. The route begins at the Leprosy Museum, a site of profound medical history, before ascending toward Fjellveien. Along the way, you'll navigate the 'Crib Alley' (Krybbesmauet), one of the steepest and most charming paths in the city. This neighborhood stroll isn't just about the views; it's about the small details—the iron railings, the flower boxes, and the silence that falls as you move higher above the harbor. You'll pass through Steinkjellergaten, one of the oldest streets in Bergen, where the history of the medieval city still feels tangible. Unlike a standard walking tour Bergen might offer in its commercial center, this route focuses on the quiet domesticity and architectural heritage of the Fjellsiden district. Highlights include the panoramic vantage points from Skanselien and the colorful facades of Helgesens gate. Whether you're interested in Bergen's unique urban planning or simply looking for the best photography spots, this walking route provides an intimate look at the city's residential heart. Perfect for those who enjoy moderate exercise and the thrill of discovery, this self-guided adventure allows you to pause whenever a view catches your eye or a hidden doorway piques your curiosity. Exploring these secret corners reveals a side of Bergen often missed by those who stay on the level ground of the harbor.

Numbers indicate the order of stops on the tour
St. Jørgen's Hospital stands as a somber monument to medical history. For centuries, Bergen was a center for leprosy research, and it was here that Dr. Gerhard Armauer Hansen discovered the leprosy bacillus in 1873. The hospital buildings we see today date largely from the 18th century, though the institution is much older. Walking through the courtyard, you feel the weight of the lives lived here in isolation. This site is one of the best-preserved leprosy hospitals in Europe, offering a window into a past where Bergen was both a bustling port and a place of scientific breakthrough. It serves as a stark reminder of the city's social history before we ascend into the residential beauty of the hills.
This stop on the Fløibanen funicular route offers a taste of the higher altitudes without the full mountain climb. Fjellveien itself is a legendary promenade for locals, stretching over 4 kilometers along the mountainside. From here, the city unfolds beneath you like a map. You can see the geometric lines of the harbor and the red roofs of the Bryggen wharf. It's a key transition point where the urban density of the center gives way to the airy, residential slopes of Fjellsiden. Take a moment to breathe in the mountain air and spot the various islands dotting the fjord in the distance. It is a favorite spot for locals to stop during their daily jog or stroll.
Welcome to one of the most iconic 'smau' in Bergen. 'Smau' is the local word for these narrow passages, and Krybbesmauet is legendary for its steepness and tight turns. As you climb or descend, notice how the wooden houses lean toward each other, creating an intimate, almost tunnel-like atmosphere. It is a perfect example of how Bergen’s citizens adapted to the vertical landscape. The cobblestones here are centuries old, smoothed by generations of residents carrying goods up the mountain. This alley is particularly famous among photographers for its symmetry and the way the traditional white siding of the houses contrasts with the dark stone path. It perfectly captures the essence of old Bergen.
This street name translates to 'Stone Cellar Street,' hinting at the ancient foundations beneath your feet. It is one of the oldest thoroughfares in Bergen, once serving as a main artery for the city's medieval residents. The architecture here is a fascinating mix of periods, but the narrow street plan remains largely unchanged from the Middle Ages. Look for the small details in the doorways and the way the street curves to follow the natural contour of the hill. In medieval times, this area was just outside the main commercial hub, housing craftsmen and laborers who built the city we see today. It remains a lived-in, vibrant piece of history that avoids the museum-like feel of other historic districts.
This area offers some of the most dramatic architectural perspectives in the city. Skanselien is known for its grander 19th-century villas mixed with traditional wooden structures. The elevation provides a stunning backdrop of the North Sea and the surrounding islands. It's a favorite for photographers because of the way the light hits the white facades during the 'golden hour.' You will see the Skansen fire station nearby, a historic tower that once kept watch over the wooden city to prevent the devastating fires that have plagued Bergen's history. The atmosphere here is peaceful and residential, offering a quiet world away from the busy fish market and tourist shops below.
Ending our walk in Helgesens gate brings us to a vibrant display of Bergen’s love for color. While many historic houses are traditionally white to reflect light, this street features a variety of hues that brighten even the greyest rainy days. The street is lined with well-preserved wooden homes that represent the quintessential Bergen lifestyle. Note the 'utskjæringer' or wood carvings on some of the door frames, a sign of the carpenter's pride. It is a quiet, residential end to the journey, perfect for reflecting on the hidden layers of history tucked away in the city’s steep slopes. From here, a short walk downhill returns you to the harbor and the modern city center.
Download Zigway to experience "The Hidden Smau: Secret Alleys and Cobblestone Stairs" with AI-powered audio narration. Walk at your own pace while stories unfold around you.
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